AK47

Sorry dat mijn Nederlands is niet zo goed... maar wat codes heb je gehad via de sleutel trick voor OBD1 (reading the blinking lights).

Yep. ^^ x2. Plastic bag met rubber band.

Hoi @michel1972. Ik heb only 2 inch lift dus ik mag niet meer dan 30 inch tires gebruiken ideal denk ik. Mar dit is genoeg voor mij. Die no-slip lockers ik heb 5 jaren ongeveer gebruikt before I removed it toen ik verhuisd uit Alaska en de oude diff terug geïnstalleerd. I used to drive to my hunting (eland) en fishing (zalm) spots in de jeep (4wd nodig met lockers better). En in de winter de 4wd is nodig to reach mijn huis up in the hills. Sommige tijd ik gebruik chains with 4wd want de hill is een beetje steep en is moeilijk te rijden inde sneeuw en mud. Ik ben blij met de no-slip locker omdat ik heb hardly noticed it until I needed it. Je moet leren hoe met lockers te rijden. Bedankt voor je input over de no-slip lockers! Mijn vraag was over iemands experience met automatic lockers on cobblestones en rotundas hier in Nederland. Ik dacht dat de cobblestones might cause de lockers to engage maar weet ik dat niet zeker. Your comments have given me pause before reinstalling the lockers. Misschien toen ik ben bijna naar buitenland rijden dan ik zal the locker installeer. It can sit on the garage shelf for another year. Hmmm. In the meantime, misschien ik kan de rocker arms, fuel injectors, clutch, roest in de rear quarter panel ... ahh, the list never ends!

Hi @JeePee. Ja, aan de voorkant ik ook heb een no-slip locker gepland want die goedkooper is dan een manual locker. En hier in Nederland ik heb nooit de 4wd gebruikt as compared to its use in Alaska (ongeveer 75 % of the time in de winter). Dus ik denk dat ik zal eerst installeer de rear locker en zie wat de driving does voor mij. Als ik niet lekker vinden dan ik zal misschien doe iets anders. Bedankt voor jullie opinions. Be safe out there.

Ja, ik hoor je, @Ab. Maar ik heb een open diff (geen lsd) en ik heb een road trip geplanned naar Norway, misschien in de volgende jaar. Toen mijn collega uit Tromso in Alaska was, ik hulp hem met hij research in de arctic. Nu dat ik hier wonen ik heb een chance voor meer reindeer research te doen. En ik denk dat the environment in noord Norway is misschien soms als in Alaska (not sure about this yet) en dus is meer suitable voor de locker dat ik heb in Alaska gebruikt. Misschien ik gebruik de locker sommige maanden voor een road trip. Ik vind het interessant wat the drivability is voor mijn jeep hier aan de steenweg en de rotondas.

Hello allemaal. Ik ben blij nu dat mijn nieuwe garage is bijna klaar (en mijn kind is volgende week terug naar school 👍). Voor mijn eerste project in de garage, ik wil dat mijn rear 8.25 Powertrax no-slip locker geïnstalleerd. Maar ik heb doubts over hoe goed de jeep's driving is aan de steenweg en veel rotondas hier in Drenthe met een automatisch locker. Toon ik was in Alaska, het was geen probleem met de lockers want de wegen waren vaak loose gravel of the sneeuw is deep genoeg. Dus die lockers kan lock en unlock relatively easy. Hebben jullie experience met een automatisch locker in the rear axle aan de steenweg en rotondas? Mijn jeep is nog steeds mijn daily driver. En alle straaten in mijn dorp stenen is. My concern is that the automatic lockers will lock (annoyingly) with every bump on the stones. Ps. Sorry voor mijn Nederlands maar ik probeer te praten

Strange. Does it make the same noise on both sides?

I tried to save money and just welded a piece of 2.25 inch exhaust pipe to the original tailpipe, which was still in good condition, when I replaced my uitlaat last week. I noticed however that the original tailpipe was not exactly round so I had to be creative in my welds; I c ut bend notches and bent the pipe to fit. I replaced my old uitlaat with a Flowmaster which was shorter than the factory muffler (therefore the short extension to the tailpipe). It doesn't solve the rusty pipe issue with the rest of the system, however. A complete replacement with RVS pipes would be best. What I did is only good if you want to save money.

Hey @Adebisi. Bedankt voor je comment over Fertan. Ik heb niet dat product gehoord. Daar zijn YouTube video's over deze producten dat ik heb gevonden. Ik zal deze kijken sodat ik kan begrijpen wat is Fertan over Whew! Mijn Nederlands is niet goed! Maar ik moet probeer te praten.

👍 Ok.

Hmmm. I will take a look at the RX5/RX10 products. I like that you can brush it on the undercarriage. How much prep did you have to do? Wire wheel, flap disk, or wire brush to get rid of as much rust as possible? I wonder if I need to spray a rust converter on first before the RX5.

Hey @Ab thanks for the tip. Which one do you use? RX10? Do you spray it with a spray gun? Or do you brush it on? I also wonder if a liter is enough for the undercarriage. I have the original Ziebart undercoat that is like asphalt. It is tough to remove. So I have been spraying with ATF automatic transmission fluid. This seems to work but you do have to keep up every year. It takes less than an hour. I'm trying to decide if I should go for a longer lasting product. However I am afraid to just cover up some rust spots I did not see. I can go over the surface with a flap disk grinder to remove what little rust there is. And then spray with undercoat. I don't know what else to do with the frame rail except to keep spraying the insides with ATF.

After repairing the head gasket and getting the xj to run normally again, my wife recommended that we not register it until March to save money on insurance and road tax. Sooo in the meantime, I'm thinking of rustproofing of the underside of the Jeep. Last summer, I did some major rust repair of my rockers - I cut out the rusty sections and welded new material from a spare rocker panel I brought with me from the US. I sprayed with weld through primer, then I poured Automatic Transmission Fluid inside my rocker panels to prevent rust and then sprayed with cavity wax. Now I heard that if there is a bit of snow, the roads here are filled with salt to improve safety. What do you do for rust prevention of your undercarriage? Spray undercoat? Or brush on undercoat? What brand did you use? How effective are they? In the springtime, I plan to clean the underbody and treat with undercoat. What do you find effective?

Errata - 1) I had cylinder #1 at TDC on the exhaust stroke. I reset to TDC on the combustion stroke to make the correction. 2) I positioned the rotor with the brass end pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire terminal, and disregarded the drawings on the FSM to point the rotor towards 6 o'clock. This seems to work for me. Changed oil and oil filter. Engine idles quietly at about 900 rpm. No noisy lifters. See you guys on the next project!

@Ab, thanks for your insight. I made the mistake initially when I set TDC but did not determine if it was combustion or exhaust at cylinder #1. This is the reason why I was chasing the rabbit with the distributor. The engine didn't start because I was 180* out of sync - I had erroneously set TDC at the combustion stroke. This morning, I set the timing to 0 then pulled the distributor out and then turned the crank one complete revolution back to TDC at 0*. This reset cylinder #1 to the combustion stroke. And it runs!!! No leaks! I kept it running at >2000 rpms for 20 minutes to set the new lifters to the camshaft. I will drain the oil and change the filter. Then do this again after 500 miles (800 km). Thanks for all your help. I hope this can be a reference for others with similar problems. ///End

So I pulled the distributor out again and lined up the oil pump to the 3 o'clock position. This is also the #1 plug position for this xj. Then I lined up the brass end of the distributor to the #1 position and backed off 1/8 turn counterclockwise per the FSM. When I reinstalled the distributor this made the rotor point to the #1 plug when dully installed. Now the Jeep cranks better than previously and doesn't sound like a misfire. But still no start. Maybe my timing is off by 180*. I'll try again tomorrow and see if I could correct it.

The rotor is supposed to be pointing towards the 6 o'clock position.

I checked fuel. I checked compression. I'm missing spark. So now I pulled out the distributor again. How am I to align the rotor to the oil gear slot in the engine the way as described in the FSM? Do I line up the plastic end (red arrow) to point to 5 o'clock? Or do I line up the brass end (yellow arrow) to point to 5 o'clock? And even when I line up the distributor to 5 o'clock, how will the rotor tip (blue arrow) match the 3 o'clock position of the oil gear slot? This is driving me nuts!

Yeah, will run checks this morning if it's not too rainy @Ab. Thanks.

Ok. Bad news. I tried to start the xj this afternoon but no luck. There is fuel in the rail (I checked at the fuel relief valve and fuel squirted out). I think there is spark (smoke coming out of throttle body). It cranks but doesn't start. Maybe the distributor is out ot timing? (I wasn't sure if I did it right but thought it would start anyway). Maybe I'm not grounded right? (I moved the ground connection from the rear of the head to the intake manifold; I have since moved it back) Maybe some electrical connections are wet. (It rained for several days). So here's what I did: 1)I took my compressor and blew air into all the electrical connections that I disconnected and put them back together. I hope I blew all the water out. 2)I also relocated the ground strap back to the rear of the cylinder head. 3)Then I cleaned and tightened the ground at the base of the oil dipstick when I noticed that the nut was loose when I wiggled it. 4)I also put the battery on my trickle charger even though my voltmeter read 12.4 V on it and it cranked just fine. 5)I bought a can of starting fluid to spray in the throttle body if nothing else helps. But maybe this is not so good an idea with the new cam still needing to be broken in? I'll try again tomorrow. Any ideas?

Hi @stephan. Yes, I was actually thinking about doing that. And then it continued to rain, so maybe tomorrow I can add fluids and leak a bit out the drain. BTW, what oil filter do you use? I have two of my Fram PH16 left and I have to change oil soon after cam break-in. Maybe I will just take the box to the parts store and see what they have. It cannot be too strange.

Tapped a new drain hole (13mm) for the oil pan. It was too stripped. Now I can add oil and start the xj for the first time with the new cam. Just waiting for the rain to stop.

I checked my logbook again and it looks like I was using a 205F thermostat in Alaska and now I'm back to 195F. Today I flushed the coolant/heater core lines, reinstalled the A/C, power steering, fan, fan belt, radiator, A/C condenser, hoses, and the front metal brackets. I have to get coolant so I can start the thing. But I also have to repair the stripped oil pan drain before I put oil in tomorrow. I hope this thing runs. My neighbor has a stroboscope that he can lend me to check the timing (I'm still not sure if I set the distributor right).

Good tip @Masis. I might do that the next time I change my water pump. I just changed it last July so it may be a while. I hope the rust inhibitor in the coolant can keep it clean until then. I also changed my thermostat last July so I'm reusing it for now. I used to have the higher temp one (195F) since I lived in Alaska, but I now have the 190F thermostat. As for the radiator, I am going to replace it soon. I think it's my next purchase. I have to stagger my purchases so my wife doesn't get too suspicious; she already thinks I'm spending more on the Jeep than on her (and she might be right 🤫).

One of my rocker arms was slightly twisted so I used a locking vise grip to hold it and twist. I saw this in a video and it worked. I also bolted the exhaust and intake manifolds. So far assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Getting there. This weekend I will flush the coolant lines to and from the block to clean it before putting the thermostat back in. Will flush the radiator, too.