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AK47

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AK47 last won the day on February 1

AK47 had the most liked content!

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Anderen, Drenthe

Jeep Informatie

  • Type Jeep
    Cherokee
  • Bouwjaar
    1994

Recent Profile Visitors

307 profile views
  1. Strange. Does it make the same noise on both sides?
  2. I tried to save money and just welded a piece of 2.25 inch exhaust pipe to the original tailpipe, which was still in good condition, when I replaced my uitlaat last week. I noticed however that the original tailpipe was not exactly round so I had to be creative in my welds; I c ut bend notches and bent the pipe to fit. I replaced my old uitlaat with a Flowmaster which was shorter than the factory muffler (therefore the short extension to the tailpipe). It doesn't solve the rusty pipe issue with the rest of the system, however. A complete replacement with RVS pipes would be best. What I did is only good if you want to save money.
  3. Hey @Adebisi. Bedankt voor je comment over Fertan. Ik heb niet dat product gehoord. Daar zijn YouTube video's over deze producten dat ik heb gevonden. Ik zal deze kijken sodat ik kan begrijpen wat is Fertan over Whew! Mijn Nederlands is niet goed! Maar ik moet probeer te praten.
  4. Hmmm. I will take a look at the RX5/RX10 products. I like that you can brush it on the undercarriage. How much prep did you have to do? Wire wheel, flap disk, or wire brush to get rid of as much rust as possible? I wonder if I need to spray a rust converter on first before the RX5.
  5. Hey @Ab thanks for the tip. Which one do you use? RX10? Do you spray it with a spray gun? Or do you brush it on? I also wonder if a liter is enough for the undercarriage. I have the original Ziebart undercoat that is like asphalt. It is tough to remove. So I have been spraying with ATF automatic transmission fluid. This seems to work but you do have to keep up every year. It takes less than an hour. I'm trying to decide if I should go for a longer lasting product. However I am afraid to just cover up some rust spots I did not see. I can go over the surface with a flap disk grinder to remove what little rust there is. And then spray with undercoat. I don't know what else to do with the frame rail except to keep spraying the insides with ATF.
  6. After repairing the head gasket and getting the xj to run normally again, my wife recommended that we not register it until March to save money on insurance and road tax. Sooo in the meantime, I'm thinking of rustproofing of the underside of the Jeep. Last summer, I did some major rust repair of my rockers - I cut out the rusty sections and welded new material from a spare rocker panel I brought with me from the US. I sprayed with weld through primer, then I poured Automatic Transmission Fluid inside my rocker panels to prevent rust and then sprayed with cavity wax. Now I heard that if there is a bit of snow, the roads here are filled with salt to improve safety. What do you do for rust prevention of your undercarriage? Spray undercoat? Or brush on undercoat? What brand did you use? How effective are they? In the springtime, I plan to clean the underbody and treat with undercoat. What do you find effective?
  7. Errata - 1) I had cylinder #1 at TDC on the exhaust stroke. I reset to TDC on the combustion stroke to make the correction. 2) I positioned the rotor with the brass end pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire terminal, and disregarded the drawings on the FSM to point the rotor towards 6 o'clock. This seems to work for me. Changed oil and oil filter. Engine idles quietly at about 900 rpm. No noisy lifters. See you guys on the next project!
  8. @Ab, thanks for your insight. I made the mistake initially when I set TDC but did not determine if it was combustion or exhaust at cylinder #1. This is the reason why I was chasing the rabbit with the distributor. The engine didn't start because I was 180* out of sync - I had erroneously set TDC at the combustion stroke. This morning, I set the timing to 0 then pulled the distributor out and then turned the crank one complete revolution back to TDC at 0*. This reset cylinder #1 to the combustion stroke. And it runs!!! No leaks! I kept it running at >2000 rpms for 20 minutes to set the new lifters to the camshaft. I will drain the oil and change the filter. Then do this again after 500 miles (800 km). Thanks for all your help. I hope this can be a reference for others with similar problems. ///End
  9. So I pulled the distributor out again and lined up the oil pump to the 3 o'clock position. This is also the #1 plug position for this xj. Then I lined up the brass end of the distributor to the #1 position and backed off 1/8 turn counterclockwise per the FSM. When I reinstalled the distributor this made the rotor point to the #1 plug when dully installed. Now the Jeep cranks better than previously and doesn't sound like a misfire. But still no start. Maybe my timing is off by 180*. I'll try again tomorrow and see if I could correct it.
  10. The rotor is supposed to be pointing towards the 6 o'clock position.
  11. I checked fuel. I checked compression. I'm missing spark. So now I pulled out the distributor again. How am I to align the rotor to the oil gear slot in the engine the way as described in the FSM? Do I line up the plastic end (red arrow) to point to 5 o'clock? Or do I line up the brass end (yellow arrow) to point to 5 o'clock? And even when I line up the distributor to 5 o'clock, how will the rotor tip (blue arrow) match the 3 o'clock position of the oil gear slot? This is driving me nuts!
  12. Yeah, will run checks this morning if it's not too rainy @Ab. Thanks.
  13. Ok. Bad news. I tried to start the xj this afternoon but no luck. There is fuel in the rail (I checked at the fuel relief valve and fuel squirted out). I think there is spark (smoke coming out of throttle body). It cranks but doesn't start. Maybe the distributor is out ot timing? (I wasn't sure if I did it right but thought it would start anyway). Maybe I'm not grounded right? (I moved the ground connection from the rear of the head to the intake manifold; I have since moved it back) Maybe some electrical connections are wet. (It rained for several days). So here's what I did: 1)I took my compressor and blew air into all the electrical connections that I disconnected and put them back together. I hope I blew all the water out. 2)I also relocated the ground strap back to the rear of the cylinder head. 3)Then I cleaned and tightened the ground at the base of the oil dipstick when I noticed that the nut was loose when I wiggled it. 4)I also put the battery on my trickle charger even though my voltmeter read 12.4 V on it and it cranked just fine. 5)I bought a can of starting fluid to spray in the throttle body if nothing else helps. But maybe this is not so good an idea with the new cam still needing to be broken in? I'll try again tomorrow. Any ideas?
  14. Hi @stephan. Yes, I was actually thinking about doing that. And then it continued to rain, so maybe tomorrow I can add fluids and leak a bit out the drain. BTW, what oil filter do you use? I have two of my Fram PH16 left and I have to change oil soon after cam break-in. Maybe I will just take the box to the parts store and see what they have. It cannot be too strange.
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