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AK47

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AK47 last won the day on February 1

AK47 had the most liked content!

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Anderen, Drenthe

Jeep Informatie

  • Type Jeep
    Cherokee
  • Bouwjaar
    1994

Recent Profile Visitors

416 profile views
  1. Yep. ^^ x2. Plastic bag met rubber band.
  2. Hoi @michel1972. Ik heb only 2 inch lift dus ik mag niet meer dan 30 inch tires gebruiken ideal denk ik. Mar dit is genoeg voor mij. Die no-slip lockers ik heb 5 jaren ongeveer gebruikt before I removed it toen ik verhuisd uit Alaska en de oude diff terug geïnstalleerd. I used to drive to my hunting (eland) en fishing (zalm) spots in de jeep (4wd nodig met lockers better). En in de winter de 4wd is nodig to reach mijn huis up in the hills. Sommige tijd ik gebruik chains with 4wd want de hill is een beetje steep en is moeilijk te rijden inde sneeuw en mud. Ik ben blij met de no-slip locker omda
  3. Hi @JeePee. Ja, aan de voorkant ik ook heb een no-slip locker gepland want die goedkooper is dan een manual locker. En hier in Nederland ik heb nooit de 4wd gebruikt as compared to its use in Alaska (ongeveer 75 % of the time in de winter). Dus ik denk dat ik zal eerst installeer de rear locker en zie wat de driving does voor mij. Als ik niet lekker vinden dan ik zal misschien doe iets anders. Bedankt voor jullie opinions. Be safe out there.
  4. Ja, ik hoor je, @Ab. Maar ik heb een open diff (geen lsd) en ik heb een road trip geplanned naar Norway, misschien in de volgende jaar. Toen mijn collega uit Tromso in Alaska was, ik hulp hem met hij research in de arctic. Nu dat ik hier wonen ik heb een chance voor meer reindeer research te doen. En ik denk dat the environment in noord Norway is misschien soms als in Alaska (not sure about this yet) en dus is meer suitable voor de locker dat ik heb in Alaska gebruikt. Misschien ik gebruik de locker sommige maanden voor een road trip. Ik vind het interessant wat the drivability is vo
  5. Hello allemaal. Ik ben blij nu dat mijn nieuwe garage is bijna klaar (en mijn kind is volgende week terug naar school 👍). Voor mijn eerste project in de garage, ik wil dat mijn rear 8.25 Powertrax no-slip locker geïnstalleerd. Maar ik heb doubts over hoe goed de jeep's driving is aan de steenweg en veel rotondas hier in Drenthe met een automatisch locker. Toon ik was in Alaska, het was geen probleem met de lockers want de wegen waren vaak loose gravel of the sneeuw is deep genoeg. Dus die lockers kan lock en unlock relatively easy. Hebben jullie experience met een automatisch locker
  6. Strange. Does it make the same noise on both sides?
  7. I tried to save money and just welded a piece of 2.25 inch exhaust pipe to the original tailpipe, which was still in good condition, when I replaced my uitlaat last week. I noticed however that the original tailpipe was not exactly round so I had to be creative in my welds; I c ut bend notches and bent the pipe to fit. I replaced my old uitlaat with a Flowmaster which was shorter than the factory muffler (therefore the short extension to the tailpipe). It doesn't solve the rusty pipe issue with the rest of the system, however. A complete replacement with RVS pipes would be best. What I
  8. Hey @Adebisi. Bedankt voor je comment over Fertan. Ik heb niet dat product gehoord. Daar zijn YouTube video's over deze producten dat ik heb gevonden. Ik zal deze kijken sodat ik kan begrijpen wat is Fertan over Whew! Mijn Nederlands is niet goed! Maar ik moet probeer te praten.
  9. Hmmm. I will take a look at the RX5/RX10 products. I like that you can brush it on the undercarriage. How much prep did you have to do? Wire wheel, flap disk, or wire brush to get rid of as much rust as possible? I wonder if I need to spray a rust converter on first before the RX5.
  10. Hey @Ab thanks for the tip. Which one do you use? RX10? Do you spray it with a spray gun? Or do you brush it on? I also wonder if a liter is enough for the undercarriage. I have the original Ziebart undercoat that is like asphalt. It is tough to remove. So I have been spraying with ATF automatic transmission fluid. This seems to work but you do have to keep up every year. It takes less than an hour. I'm trying to decide if I should go for a longer lasting product. However I am afraid to just cover up some rust spots I did not see. I can go over the surface with a flap disk grin
  11. After repairing the head gasket and getting the xj to run normally again, my wife recommended that we not register it until March to save money on insurance and road tax. Sooo in the meantime, I'm thinking of rustproofing of the underside of the Jeep. Last summer, I did some major rust repair of my rockers - I cut out the rusty sections and welded new material from a spare rocker panel I brought with me from the US. I sprayed with weld through primer, then I poured Automatic Transmission Fluid inside my rocker panels to prevent rust and then sprayed with cavity wax. Now I heard
  12. Errata - 1) I had cylinder #1 at TDC on the exhaust stroke. I reset to TDC on the combustion stroke to make the correction. 2) I positioned the rotor with the brass end pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire terminal, and disregarded the drawings on the FSM to point the rotor towards 6 o'clock. This seems to work for me. Changed oil and oil filter. Engine idles quietly at about 900 rpm. No noisy lifters. See you guys on the next project!
  13. @Ab, thanks for your insight. I made the mistake initially when I set TDC but did not determine if it was combustion or exhaust at cylinder #1. This is the reason why I was chasing the rabbit with the distributor. The engine didn't start because I was 180* out of sync - I had erroneously set TDC at the combustion stroke. This morning, I set the timing to 0 then pulled the distributor out and then turned the crank one complete revolution back to TDC at 0*. This reset cylinder #1 to the combustion stroke. And it runs!!! No leaks! I kept it running at >2000 rpms for 20 minutes to set
  14. So I pulled the distributor out again and lined up the oil pump to the 3 o'clock position. This is also the #1 plug position for this xj. Then I lined up the brass end of the distributor to the #1 position and backed off 1/8 turn counterclockwise per the FSM. When I reinstalled the distributor this made the rotor point to the #1 plug when dully installed. Now the Jeep cranks better than previously and doesn't sound like a misfire. But still no start. Maybe my timing is off by 180*. I'll try again tomorrow and see if I could correct it.
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