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Tinkertoy #2


aw12345
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Got the beginnings of tinkertoy 2 aka alleviate boredom sitting in the garage.

Gonna shoot for a wheelbase somewhere between 114 and 119"

Just talked to a friend at work who is going to let me use some Toyota axles for mockup. I am very curious how that is going to work out. Will be fun to cook up a suspension for this thing. Rear will be double triangulated 4 link. Front either a wishbone trilink upper or a 4 link if I can fit it in there. This frame is narrow, not a whole lot of room. It's gonna have full hydro, since it came with an orbital. Got it sitting about at the belly height that I want.

Want to run the Pitbulls on this pup

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Pretty happy camper today, after about 6 hours of playing with the wiring spaghetti and pouring over the wiring diagrams with a magnifying glass,(got to love getting old lol) The thing is alive, runs pretty sweet too. Need to wire in a fuse box, a few more relays and an ignition switch. Probably wouldn't hurt to put a proper fuel tank in either. I was pretty ecstatic when it roared to life.

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How about 4 wheel steer?

I have enough trouble figuring out where I am going with 1 steering wheel lol.

Doesn't mean that a future mod wouldn't include rear steer.

Spend a few hours trying to lay things out to my liking.

Starting to form an idea where I want to go with the front suspension.

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Got me 2 Dana 60 HP axles sitting in the back of the truck one has an ARB in it. The other has an open carrier but comes with 35 spline chromo inners and 35 spline stubs. both came with rotors and calipers. The front has warn hubs on it. Also got all the heim joints I need and some nice thick aluminum lowers from Currie, we will see how well those hold up.

Felt like christmas tonight. He threw in the steering wheel with the disconnect and a shift mechanism lever thing for the auto trans.

Cool stuff

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Did a bit more visualizing and starting to get a clear idea where the frontend parts and front suspension will go

Going to shoot for about 7" separation between uppers and lowers, triangulate lowers probably a bit more then what it shows right now.

Left header needs to come out just a bit more to clear the driveshaft at full stuff. The air shocks mounts most likely get moved around a bit to get good clearance. Going to booty fab tack this stuff together hopefully sometime next week so I can flex the whole shebang to see if it will all happily life in harmony with each other.

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Axle is pretty much hanging in place. Going to sit back and do a bit of thinking about ride height and up travel.

For the most part it looks like things will fit as intended. Will pick up a plasma cutter Monday or Tuesday and see if I can spend a bit of time fabrimacating. Going to narrow the bottom of the tube frame so all the legs angle in towards the frame.

Need to cut the upper airshock mounts off, those need to move up a bit. Need to cut all the crap of the axle tube and diff housing.

Looks like I will be happily entertained this coming week

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Clearance of the drive shaft with the left wheel stuffed about as far as it will ever go.

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Full stuff

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Not quite full droop

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Spend the afternoon removing brackets from the axle, then made a dummy upper mount for the left side.

Started to a bit of flexin and bled the air shocks down. At the height it sits now I can get close to 5" uptravel and things will pretty much clear and with what I have in mind I can get the full 15" of travel out of both front shocks. Need to make new upper and lower minds but other that the double sided steering ram I can start packaging the whole shebang under the front. Going to have to hit up one of my buds to snag his bender, plasma cutter and notcher and then it's on like Donkeykong

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Bit more play time today

Clearance from the pumkin to the oil pan at full bump

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Full stuff and full droop oopsie we got a problem, I am hoping the wheelspacers will help clear this

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Not going to worry about that to much for now, some of the tubing and the radiator might find new homes once I acquire the steering ram.

What gives me happiness is the angle of the lower control arms front and back. Also where I want to put the front uppers will work clearance wise.

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I like the look of the front at ride height

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Looks like some of the firewall is going to be made out some sort of perforated aluminum or steel.

Kinda like the idea of seeing the front tires, with Jeeps a lot of it, is driving by braille, the front camera on my big toy helps a lot in picking rocks, on this one I want to keep it simple.

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Width outside tire to outside tire will be 90" once the wheel spacers go in.

As it stands right now the wheelbase is 115"

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Got my front frame side lower control arm mounts welded up and stuck back in place. Now the hunt is on for a transmount so I can finalize that, then on to gusseting the back of the crossmember a bit. If the fuel cell hasn't shown up by then it's time for a trip to the steel yard for some flat plate to start knocking out the upper control arm mounts and lower air shock mounts. want to tie those together and to the inner C so all of that gets beefed up in one shot.

Also found out after doing a bit of research that the are shocks are 16" and 18" pretty darn sweet. Just hope I can figure out how to tune those things to my liking.

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Yup lowers are triangulated, not enough room to 4 link the uppers and triangulate them. This seems to work the drive shaft clears the links by the look of things and so does everything else. Want to get my hands on a nitrogen bottle so I can charge the shocks so I can flex this thing with the cherry picker

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My fancy notcher

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Did manage to flex it for the most part and came across a few issues, one involves notching the frame a bit so the front upper control arm mount can slide under the frame. The other involves the rear shocks, they need to be angled in more. Which is actually a good thing, the reason that helps stability is actually kinda self explanatory once you look at the one pic and think about where the weight of the body transfers to the axle. Would have been easier to flex this thing with nitrogen in the shocks, since it might have behaved slightly differently. Oh well will deal with that when I have some money to buy a nitrogen setup.

Anyway ran out of travel on the cherry picker. the left front shock still had 3" of travel left

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Figured out what I am going to do for upper frame mounts in the front. Going to use a piece 3x3" 1/2" thick piece of plate that gets welded into the frame. It will have a nut welded behind it and also will be tapped all the way through that should give me plenty of thread engagement and a square piece to built the rest of the mount off. It also allows me to tuck the arms as close as possible to the frame, but still give them enough clearance to move freely through the whole range of travel.

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Got the fuel pump mounted in the fuel cell, only thing I don't like about is that it sits of to the side.

Will have to copy some of the KOH fuel cell pick setups. Would kinda suck to have it starve for fuel when you are having one of these having fun going almost over moments

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I want to narrow the bottom part of the tube frame and would like to use 1 1/2" 0.120 wall square tubing since it would make it easier to cope, attach the aluminum sheeting to the side. Anybody have any idea if there is a big difference in strength between regular 1 1/2" 0.120 wall tubing and the square tubing?

Narrowing it would make it easier for the body to slide between rocks and It doesn't really take any usable interior room away also in my opinion it would be stronger and lighter.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well sometimes you take one step forward and 2 steps back, yet it isn't as bad as the worst case scenario.

I didn't think it was and my suspicion turned out right it ate something and bend a valve.

From the look of the washer it once belonged on one of the mounting studs for the TBI, so some somewhat careless individual changed the gasket on it or had it of for some reason and by accident dropped the flatwasher in the intake, unfortunate for me it was a hardened washer, so it did some damage. On the bright side the cylinder wall didn't crack, the piston looks servicable and the cyliderwalls have no discernible ridge in them. So removing one broken stud a cylinder gasket set and at the worst 1 new intake valve and my lil darling will be purring again.

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